2009/11/19

[麵粉手] 瑪德蓮Madeleine

瑪德蓮(Madeleine)是法國傳統小糕點。白話一點形容,可以說他是有貝殼造型的紮實版海綿蛋糕。

有關瑪德蓮名稱的由來,眾說紛紜。最為出名的屬法國東北部洛林地區的產品。

普魯斯特(Marcel Proust, 1871-1922)的意識流鉅作《追憶似水年華》,首冊《在斯萬家那邊》中,因「瑪德蓮」而召喚出主人公馬塞爾過往回憶...

母親送上熱茶和小瑪德蓮蛋糕,馬塞爾剝一小塊瑪德蓮糕點沾在茶裡,然後輕輕放入口中,接著舌間慢慢嚐到茶點釋放出的香美,味覺的感受勾起了昔日的回憶,迸發而出。

“She sent out for one of those short, plump little cakes called petites madeleines, which look as though they had been moulded in the fluted scallop of a pilgrim's shell. And soon, mechanically, weary after a dull day with the prospect of a depressing morrow, I raised to my lips a spoonful of the tea in which I had soaked a morsel of the cake. No sooner had the warm liquid, and the crumbs with it, touched my palate than a shudder ran through my whole body, and I stopped, intent upon the extraordinary changes that were taking place…at once the vicissitudes of life had become indifferent to me, its disasters innocuous, its brevity illusory…”

— Remembrance of Things Past, Volume 1: Swann's Way.



Madeleine要烤到plump胖嘟嘟鼓鼓的才對。傳統食譜會加入一些碎堅果,譬如杏仁。現今變異作法則會加入碎檸檬皮(lemon zest)。第一次做,打安全牌,什麼多的配料都沒加。

[材料] 可做成12個Madeleine
蛋.....................................................................1個
低筋麵粉.........................................................70g
細砂糖.............................................................60g
鹽....................................................................少許
無鹽奶油..........................................................75g

材料跟做法根據西點蛋糕大百科略為調整,原本書上寫要加些許泡打粉,但剛好用完,所以沒加;另外,糖減量成60g。

[用具]
電子磅秤、大鋼碗、手動打蛋器 (購於無印良品)
橡皮刮刀、保鮮膜 (購於大創)
貝殼模具 (購於大大創很多模具可以挖寶,挑made in Japan的買)

[作法]
(1) 貝殼模抹上一層薄奶油,灑上薄薄一層麵粉,備用。
(2) 恢復室溫的蛋放入容器用打蛋器打散,鹽跟砂糖分次加入,大動作攪拌,打發到表面變白產生柔細泡沫,呈黏稠狀,如此烤好的成品才會鬆軟。
(3) 過篩後的粉類加入(2),一面轉動容器一面用橡皮刮刀由底部往上翻攪麵糊,再以切拌法拌勻。
(4) 溶解好的奶油(--隔水加熱或微波--)加入,用橡皮刮刀以切拌法拌勻。保鮮膜完整包住容器,在室溫下擺放醒30分鐘。(麵糊經過醒的過程,能較勻稱可口)
(5) 烤箱預熱180度。麵糊舀入貝殼模具中,八分滿為準。烘烤約18分鐘,完成後趁熱模具倒扣取出熱呼呼的Madeleine放涼。


烤箱中的Madeleine長胖中

沒加泡打粉也這麼澎皮,我的二頭肌也微笑。作法(2)狂打發阿。



完美的Madeleine體驗,剝開會散發出濃郁的奶油蛋糕香味,吃起來乾濕恰如其份,外殼脆脆,內裡濕軟。不用讓麵糰睡一個晚上,西點蛋糕大百科好神,這種作法簡單又容易成功耶。


------------------後來買了泡打粉------------------
依據大百科說明的份量加入,反而覺得沒有第一次做得好吃。加了泡打粉,烘烤的時候有更蓬鬆的肚子,但烤好的內餡吃起來洞洞組織較多,吃起來不紮實綿密。


* Wiki about Madeleine
* 普魯斯特-建構時光大教堂
* 蜂蜜瑪德蓮

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